My kosher wine 2015 year in review

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Well, it is another Gregorian year and though there has been many new things going on in the world of the kosher wine world, they are all small in comparison to the larger fact that not much has changed.

Sadly, my issues from 2014 have not changed and in some ways they are getting worse. But lets start at the beginning and get to my issues next. So here is what I thought about 2015, in terms of kosher wine overall.

Economics

The economics of kosher wine continues to be a serious issue. When I get excited by a SINGLE very good kosher wine that exists below the 10 dollar range (other than maybe Baron Herzog Cabernet and Chardonnay which retail for more) – you know we have issues. Here is a list of non-kosher wines from Wine Spectator and from Wine Enthusiast. They show hundreds of options while we have THREE max, why? I have heard all the answers – and trust me the kosher supervision is not the reason!

I do not need to harp over the number of horrible and undrinkable – let alone unspeakable wines that exist in the kosher wine aisles that are not worthy of the glass they reside in. They all cost more than 10 dollars. In the end, the issue cannot be denied and it needs to be fixed. Quality exists (more below) at higher prices, but what is needed is lower prices and higher quality. You can always create great wines at 100 dollars – that is really not a hard thing to do, even if it looks that way sometimes. Great grapes from Napa, Montsant, or even places like Ben Zimra and others locations in the Upper Galilee, can be had for less than 6K a ton. Napa is the highest cost, with Montsant and Galilee costing less. Still, even at that cost – you get 50 cases at 100 bucks a pop = which comes out to 60K. Sure there are costs, including humans, and space, and the such. My point being the cost of making great wine is not hard. The real head knocker is making very good wine at lower costs.

That is where Terrenal has made a living at making very good wines, not great, not A rated, but very good wines at low cost. The sad fact is that unless there are great sales or just really cheap wine stores, the list of kosher wines under 20 dollars are even still limited, and that is what is really hurting the kosher wine world in my opinion.

Quality

Which takes us to the next subject – QPR (Quality to Price Ratio). I scream when there is a new good wine that is worthy of the QPR moniker. Elvi Wines is a perfect example of a winery made to build QPR wines. Same goes for Netofa Winery, Yarden/Gilgal Whites, Tabor white and rose, Capcanes, Terrenal, Volcanus, Goose Bay whites, Tura, some French wines here and there, and a few others. In terms of pure quality, ignoring price, then the list grows to most of Cali, most of Israel’s whites and rose, and for a few red from Israel’s superstars; including wineries like Matar, YatirFlam, Castel, Tzora, GvaotRecanati, Dalton, Teperberg, Tura, Carmel Winery (Israeli labels), Ella Valley (for the Franc), Adir, and some others.

Yes, my list of top wines for Passover continues to expand, but so do the number of wines available – and there is the rub. While the list continues to expand from 100 to 120, the number of wines available are in thousands – and there lies the issue. The percentages are not in the favor of the average guy on the street. I listed lots of wineries above, but in Israel alone, there are some 200+ kosher wineries, with more popping up weekly!

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  1. Isaac Chavel Avatar

    Hi, David, been awhile,

    Just read your thoughtful comments, and agree totally. I am a drinker of wine below $25-30 as I have not the wallet to cultivate a taste for more expensive wines. I would add two comments.

    1. I have friends over all the time, modern Orthodox, not heavy frum — forget yeshivish and chasidish. For the regular non wine-afficianados I always serve a wine they haven’t seen,. I used to keep it below $20, and now I am pressed to keep it below $25 a bottle. They just love the stuff, but are NEVER interested enough buy it for themselves. When they reciprocate invitations I only see the plonk about which you complain.The exceptions are three/four families in the neighborhood for whom I pull out my best stuff since they reciprocate in kind. It seems that key issue on the part of most people is simple lack of interest to start with — oddly enough, in a socio-economic profile where you would expect such interest. So education is indeed a long steep uphill battle.

    2. If Herzog is the biggest kosher producer-AND-distributor in the world, how do you expect any effort on their part to invest in education/advertising beyond their own wines? And the poor wineries in their portfolio who are not wealthy enough to do any of their own advertising in the US are just stuck with Herzog placing their wines on shelves and no more. Back a ways I was close to one of the early backers of a winery in Israel, who used Royal as their importer and who barely gave him the time of day. When he was ready to switch importers/distributors they came up with a substantially larger order for his wine. He was simply too small for them to take account of him — until he was ready to leave. Maybe things have changed since then, but I don’t see how it could be otherwise.

    Those are the two matters that always stand out for me in these discussions.

    At any rate, good to hear from you, if only through the newsletter. Be well and be cool,

    Isaac

    1. winemusings Avatar

      Hello Isaac!

      In terms of the first one – I totally agree and sadly that is what the situation is for a large percentage of the folks – but we all hope that some of our madness is rubbing off. Secondly, I agree with the winery story and they are not with Royal any longer. That said, Royal cannot possibly push anything more than a cursory amount – they would just explode. The real responsibility lies on the wineries and their in country promoters. I think there will be a very large biz for folks who can be setting up pourings for any winery that wants more hands on promotion in behalf of that entity. The need is there and so is the desire from the wineries, even if they do not all admit it openly.

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