• Dani Freedenberg

    New Wines “by Teperberg Winery”

    Teperberg has been on a journey of sorts over the last 15 years or so. Since Shiki Rauchberger took over in 2002, the winery has been transformed from a medium sized winery producing mediocre wines to one of Israel’s largest – producing professionally made wines through and through. In 2006 Olivier Fratty joined the team and, within a couple of years, helped move the winery into a more old-world style that was evident through the 2013 vintage. In my humble opinion, this was the winery’s heyday. Since 2014, following the lead of GHW, Teperberg has pursued a more new-world style. While personally I find less to like these days than I used to, one cannot argue with this strategy’s success in terms of sales. Teperberg is now Israel’s third largest winery producing more than five million bottles a year.

    In 2016, Dani Freedenberg joined the winemaking team. As with Olivier before him, it has taken a couple of years, but his addition is now bearing fruit in a pretty direct way.  Teperberg is now releasing two wines that have been personal projects of Dani’s and have even listed Dani as the winemaker. The wines are a 2019 Grenache and 2019 Ramato of Pinot Gris. Besides the whimsical new labeling, both of these wines share many characteristics. They both are harvested by hand and are minimal-intervention wines that have spent 10 months in a barrel. But most importantly, these wines have a boutique feeling about them – as if they are not a part of the standard lineup or style that Teperberg is currently selling. It is almost like a small boutique line within the winery. This is an idea that I understand Teperberg has entertained in the past, ultimately deciding to focus on the primary brand and make any shifts in style in a uniform manner – until now. These wines are experimental and work well when viewed as a unit separate from the rest of Teperberg’s portfolio. In fact, the branding lets you know that. Rather than put the winery name up front, these wines stand apart and just have a “by Teperberg Winery” at the bottom of the label – with no Teperberg logo. I tasted these wines outdoors at Crave in Jerusalem. While the food is always yummy, I don’t really find it possible to take accurate notes on the nose of any wine in that setting. I am basically smelling the shuk and the food, so I didn’t bother including those notes here.

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  • Sadly, simple kosher red wines are uninteresting and have poor QPR scores, for the most part

    So, ask me what is the weakest wine category in the kosher wine market? The answer is simple, the simple red wine. Simple red wine is defined here in my QPR (Quality to Price Ratio) post as a red wine that would not last four years. In other words, a wine made to enjoy upon release and hold for a year or two max.

    The sad fact is that there are hundreds of wines in this category and they are all poor quality wines. Remember, QPR scores are not controlled by me at all, but rather by the market forces and prices the market forces on the wines. So, a wine that I score a 91 (which is 100% subjective and up to me), like the 2019 Chateau Riganes or the 2018 Herzog Cabernet Sauvignon, Lineage cannot be given a QPR score by what I feel in my gut, or I think.

    The QPR (Quality to Price Ratio) score of BAD/POOR/EVEN/GOOD/GREAT (WINNER) is defined by the wine’s category, in combination with the price of the wine compared against the price of its peers in that category. So, once you realize the Chateau Riganes is a simple red wine and that its price is 14 dollars, on average, and then you compare it against the other wines in this category, you quickly realize it has a GREAT QPR score and is a QPR WINNER. The median price for wines in the simple red wine category goes from 13 dollars to as high as 60 dollars and the wine scores go from 58 up to 91. Essentially an abysmal wine category with 100+ wines I have tasted recently and all but 22 of them score below a 90, with just six WINNERS (though some of those are just in France/Europe). So, the Riganes, with a score of 91 for 14 dollars, again on average, shows this wine is below the median price of its peers (20 dollars) and above the median score of its peers (87). So, for 14 dollars, you can get a simple red wine that is better than the vast majority of other red wines in the same category and for cheaper – the very definition of a GREAT/WINNER QPR wine.

    If there was ONE take away from the work I have been doing into QPR, that I guess I did not see coming until I did all the work and wrote it all down into a spreadsheet, would be that wines that have a long drinking window also get higher scores and cost more, on average. All that sounds logical but it was not until I wrote it all up that it was glaringly obvious! The high-end kosher wine category’s median wine score is 92! Again, that makes sense as I would not give a wine like the 2017 Raziel a long drinking window. Mind you that wine may well be “alive” in ten years but it would not be a wine I would think about drinking at that time. The ripeness on it would be so overwhelming that it would turn me off more at that time than it does now. That can also be said for the 2016 Chateau Leydet-Valentin, Saint-Emilion, Grand Cru. It will be around for more than almost ANY simple red wine will live, but it will not be enjoyable, to me. So, the drinking window is very short, which places it into a simple red wine category.

    It is an interesting byproduct of choosing the vector to compare wines against each other, outside of price, of course. I will keep an eye on it, but for now, the wine category vector that I think gets me the “best” sample size, per wine category option, is the drinking window. This means we will have strange outliers on both sides for sure.

    Trying other categories, like wine region or varietal or style will not work – they are not apple to apple. By using the wine’s drinking window we get far more evenly distributed sample sizes and variation in the actual wines.

    Finally, many wines are NOT on this list, BECAUSE, this list is of wines that drink NOW to soon. For instance, the 2018 Terra di Seta Chianti Classico, is a GREAT wine and is a QPR WINNER, but it is not on this list. It is not on the next list I will publish either (mid-level red wines). It is on the long aging red wines. It is sub 20 dollars and is a wine everyone should stock up on. Same for the 2015 Terra di Seta Chianti Classico, Riserva, and the 2015 Assai. That is why the price is not the arbiter for what defines a good QPR wine, nor is it based upon a winery, country, region, varietal, and style.

    Sadly, the takeaway here is that this wine category is not very interesting. Still, there are a couple of options and six WINNERS, overall, spread across countries, so I guess we should be thankful for that, at least. The wine notes follow below – the explanation of my “scores” can be found here:

    2019 Chateau Les Riganes (M) – Score: 91 (QPR: WINNER)YES!!! The curse is broken! The odd year 2019 vintage is good! Finally! The nose on this wine is fun dirt, earth, bramble, green notes, followed by fun red and black fruit, all coming together into an intoxicating aroma. This is not a top-flight wine, but it is, once again, a very good QPR wine and a sure WINNER.The mouth on this medium-bodied wine is not layered, but it has enough complexity and elegance to make this work, with a good attack of dark red fruit, with dark currant, dark cherry, hints of blackberry, followed by loads of dirt, mineral, graphite, and a very nice mouth-draping tannin structure, with fun dirt, loam, and loads of foliage. The finish is long, green, and red, with lovely graphite, draping tannin, green olives, and green notes lingering long with tobacco, oregano, and Tarragon. Bravo! Drink until 2024.

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  • Tasting of Royal Wine’s 2018 and some 2019 French wines in California

    Well, it is official, 2020 continues to take, and though my annoyances are minor in comparison to the pain others are feeling, it still has impacted my routine, which I guess is the story of 2020. For the past three years, I have been tasting Royal’s latest wines with the man in France for Royal, Menahem Israelievitch. Sadly, this year, no matter how much I planned and tried, it is a no go. So, for the first time, in a long time, the tasting will be here in Cali and it will only be a small part of the 2018 and 2019 wines, such is life.

    So, no there will not be a picture with all the wines, and some of the wines from last year are still not here right now! But, I will post here what I did taste so far, and my overall feeling of the 2018 and 2019 vintages.

    In a previous post about the most recent French wines (at that time in 2017) that were arriving on the market – I already spoke about pricing and supply, so there is no need to talk that over again in this post.

    While the 2015 and 2016 vintages were ripe, and the 2017 vintage was not ripe at all, the 2018 vintage makes the 2015 ripeness look tame! Now that is a very broad-stroke statement that cannot be used uniformly, but for the most part, go with it!

    I see no reason to repeat what Decanter did – so please read this and I will repeat a few highlights below.

    For a start, the drought came later in 2018,’ says Marchal, pointing out that early July saw less rain in 2016. ‘But when it came in 2018, it was more abrupt, with the green growth stopping across the whole region at pretty much the same time’. He sees it closer to 2009, but with more density to the fruit. … and high alcohols!

    Alcohols will be highest on cooler soils that needed a long time to ripen, so the Côtes, the Satellites, and the cooler parts of St-Emilion have alcohols at 14.5-15%abv and more. I heard of one Cabernet Franc coming in at 16.5%abv, but that is an exception. In earlier-ripening areas, such as Pessac-Léognan and Pomerol, alcohols are likely to be more balanced at 13.5% or 14%abv, as they will have reached full phenolic ripeness earlier.

    ‘Pessac-Léognan did the best perhaps because it’s an early ripening site,’ said Marie-Laurence Porte of Enosens, ‘so they were able to get grapes in before over-concentration. If you had to wait for phenolic ripeness, that is where things could get difficult’.

    The final averages per grape, according to Fabien Faget of Enosens, are Sauvignon Blanc 13.5%abv, Sémillon 12.5%abv, Merlot 14.5%abv, and Cabernet Sauvignon 14%abv’.

    The Mevushal push, from Royal wines, is continuing for the USA labels, a fact I wonder about more and more. Look, if you are going to force Mevushal wine down our throats, why not import BOTH? If you look at the numbers for wines like we will taste in the post, the majority of the buyers are not restaurants or caterers. Sorry! No matter how much Royal Wines wants to fool itself into thinking. Throw in COVID and FORGET about this INSANITY, please! I beg of you!

    There is no denying that it affects the wine, it does. I have tasted the Chateau Le Crock side by side, the Mevushal, and non-Mevushal and while I feel that Royal does a good job with the boiling, it is still affected. If you want to have Mevushal wines in the USA, then bring them BOTH in! Royal does this for Capcanes Peraj Petita and the undrinkable Edom and others in Israel. So what Royal is saying is – that could not sell the Chateau Le Crock numbers that they import into the USA without boiling it? Why else would they feel forced to boil it and import it if not otherwise? To me, it makes me sad, and in a way, it disrespects what Royal is trying to do to its French wine portfolio, IMHO. They should, at minimum, import both! Allow for the caterers and restaurants (like anyone needs that nowadays – HUH???) to have the Mevushal version and sell the non-mevushal version to us, as you do with Edom and Petita. There I have stated my peace, I am 100% sure I will be ignored – but I have tried!

    The Mevushal wines from France for the 2018/2019 vintage will be, the 2018 Barons Edmond et Benjamin de Rothschild, Haut-Medoc, 2018 Chateau Greysac, 2018 Chateau Chateau de Parsac, 2018 Les Lauriers, Des Domaines Edmond de Rothschild, 2018 Chateau Le Crock, 2019 Chateau Les Riganes, Red, 2018 Chateau Genlaire, along with the whites wines, the 2019 Bourgogne Les Truffieres, Chardonnay, the 2019 Les Marronniers, Chablis,  and the 2019 Chateau Les Riganes, Blanc.

    Now does mevushal impede the long-term viability of aging in regards to the wine? Well, that too is not something that we have scientific proof of. I have tasted a mevushal 1999 Herzog Special Edition and it was aging beautifully! So, would I buy the mevushal versions of the wines I tasted below – yes! Would I age them? Yes, I would hold them for slightly fewer years.

    Other than the mevushal aspect, there are no differences between the European version of the wines and the USA version of the wines. While that sounds obvious, I am just stating it here. The wines will be shipped now and the temperature issues that affected Israel’s wines of old, have not been a factor here.

    The “other” wines not here yet or I have not had

    There is the just-released 2018 Château Cantenac Brown Margaux (will post that when I get it), along with these yet unreleased wines. The 2019 Chateau Gazin Blanc (2018 was/is INCREDIBLE), 2018 Chateau Fourcas Dupre, 2018 Château Meyney Saint Estèphe, 2018 Chateau Giscours, 2018 Chateau Lascombes, 2018 Chatyeau Tertre, and 2018 Chateau Royaumont.

    I understand this is a sub-optimal situation and blog post. It does not cover Royal’s 2018/2019 European wine portfolio. Still, it covers what has been released (or very close to it), here in the USA, and hopefully, it will help you. One day soon, I hope and pray, things will return to some semblance of normalcy, and we will all travel around again. Until then, this is the best I can do. Stay safe!

    Final comments, disclaimer, and warnings

    First, there are a TON of QPR winners but there are also a LOT of good wines that I will be buying. Please NOTE vintages. The 20016 Haut Condissas is a disaster while the 2017 vintage is fantastic! So, please be careful!

    These wines are widely available in the USA, so support your local wine stores folks – they need your help! If you live in a wine-drinking desert, like California, support the online/shipping folks on the side of this blog. They are folks I buy from (as always – I NEVER get a bonus/kickback for your purchases – NOT MY STYLE)!

    Sadly, there was no plane trip, no hotels, no restaurants, nothing. So, no trip to talk about – just the wines and my lovely home! Stay safe all and here are the wines I have had so far. I have also posted many scores of 2015, 2016, 2017, and 2018 wines which are still for sale here in the USA. My many thanks to Royal Wine for their help in procuring some of these wines. The wine notes follow below – the explanation of my “scores” can be found here:

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  • Two wines with no added sulfites (just do not call them Sulfite-free wines)

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  • Three wines that have sadly lost their luster

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  • The latest crop of simple Kosher white wines with many QPR options!

    The QPR graph for the simple white wine category

    After going through the 2019 roses in my last post the 2019 and 2018 whites are up next. I am adamant that QPR (Quality to Price Ratio) is where kosher wine needs to go. QPR means well-priced wines. Still, people do not get QPR. To me, QPR is what I describe and explain here.

    To restate it again, the Q part of QPR (Quality) is the qualitative part of the QPR score while the P (Price) is the quantitative part of the QPR score. My opinion of a wine, its qualitative score, is 100% subjective, and my opinion, while what the ACTUAL price of the wine (in a public store) is 100% objective, it is NOT subjective, the price is right there on the website! Where I disagree with many about QPR is that many choose an arbitrary price to state that a wine has a good QPR (a good value for the price). Well, that is absurd, I may spend 50 dollars for a bottle of wine and others would not spend more than 10 for a bottle of wine. QPR based upon a subjective price – adds yet another subjective valuation to the mess! That is why I used the actual price of the wine – IN COMPARISON to its peers! That way you get to see wines in the same categories (white, rose, red, sparkling) compared against its peers – where the wine score is now apples to apples. So a 50 dollar red wine that gets a 90 score and 30 dollars red wine (both in the drink now red wine category) that gets a 90 score, makes the obvious choice for the 30 dollar wine. But what is the 50 dollar wine gets a 92 score – well now you need to compare the 92 against its peers, and you may well find that it is still a POOR to BAD QPR even though it gets a subjective score of 92, because there are other peers to it, in its category, that score better or maybe a drop worse (say 91), but cost half as much. Please read the QPR revised post again.

    In the Rose world, things were not great. Sure we had two QPR Winners (again a winner is a QPR score of GREAT and a 91 score or higher), but those two JUST sneaked in, as the prices for roses keep rising. The world of white wines is not like that. White wines have loads of winners, 13 in total, and half of them or more are priced well below the Median price.

    Also, remember that this post is about simple white wines (AKA Drink “soon” White Wine). I qualify this wine category in my QPR 2.0 Revised post to mean, white wines that will not age 7 years. The ageable white wine list is far smaller and will be released soon.

    A graph of the QPR Winners and high scored wines for the simple white wine category

    Median Price keeps moving and more wines are Winners

    I liked the 2019 Covenant Sauvignon Blanc but it was priced too high when I first had it. Since then, as I keep tasting wines in the simple white wine category (AKA not age-able white wines) the price overall for the category is going up. This is NOTHING new, I say it constantly, kosher wine prices keep going up! This is why we created the QPR idea, as I was sick and tired of seeing such high prices on wines.

    Well, the simple white wines are not immune and sadly they too are now rising at a pace that is not great. Still, A rising tide lifts all boats, so, the good wines go from good to GREAT and then to WINNER with really nothing more than a higher tide! As, again, QPR is 50% wine score and 50% price, the 91 score for the 2019 Covenant Sauvignon Blanc did not change – what changed was the price of its peers and as such its QPR score.

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  • Final take on 2020’s crop of Kosher roses – 2 QPR Winners, but overall not great

    Kosher 2019 Roses charted by price and wine score (QPR)

    So, as the image above shows roses are very expensive and the majority of the 28 of the 55 are at or above the median price of 23. This is not new, IMHO, roses overall have not been good or even very interesting this season.

    Please read this post for my writeup on rose wines this year. I had a few follow-ups after that, including the one post with the QPR Rose for 2020, but this post will list all the rose wines I have had this year. Also, as I tasted more wines the price of the median went up and that allowed the Roubine La Vie to also become a QPR Winner. Again, the MARKET decides the QPR winners, not me! All I decide is the wine’s subjective quality score, and yes, that is subjective! The rest, the P part of QPR (Quality to Price Ratio) is decided upon by the market. Please read my revised QPR scoring here.

    The image does not show the 2 QPR Winners as obvious winners, as the dot that represents the Carmel Rose and the Roubine La Vie Rose is on the top left of the winner box. These wines barely made their way into the Winner’s square, but with such a horrible vintage, rose-wise, 2 is better than NONE.

    In regards to rose, look a lot of my friends and I do not agree. Look at the Cantina Giuliano Rosato, it is a VERy nice and classically made Gris style rose, but it has a bit of RS (Residual Sugar) in it, at least to my palate, and I have issues with that. Other wines that have more RS drive me nuts. My friends do not care about RS or ripe notes in rose as long as it is balanced. To me, rose, red, or white, I DO NOT want RS. The funny thing is that Kedel Jackson probably got away with1% RS in his Chardonnays for decades, and made it the classic style for Cali Chard, which brought on the famous ABC movement (Anything But Chardonnay). Which spawned Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and so many other great white wines here in California.

    So, yes, there are two winners now, and there are a few 91 scored roses, but please look at the chart!! LOL! It is visually clear that the vast majority of the wines are not something I would look to buy. They are either too expensive or not interesting and that is what has gone wrong with the kosher rose market. Again, I have said it a few times, IMHO, the wineries have thrown in the towel and they make rose thinking it will sell, no matter what they release. This will eventually end badly. Only time will tell.

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  • RCC Raanana Elul 5780 including a new Tokaji Aszú

    When I happen to be travelling on or close to Rosh Chodesh, and I can’t attend my regular Jerusalem based RCC, I try to attend one in the locality that I happen to find myself in. Even when I am at home in Israel, every now and then I attend an RCC either in addition to or in place of the one that I organize in the Jerusalem area. That was the case this month when organizing something in Jerusalem didn’t seem realistic with the current restrictions. And so this month, I found myself attending the RCC hosted in the city of Raanana. In general, when I do attend an RCC other than my own, I do not write about it. It’s not really my place – I am just a guest and others in attendance may not be up for a public critique of the wine they brought. In this case though when I RSVP’ed that I was coming, one of the organizers specifically asked that I write it up the same way as I would an RCC of my own. I warned him , that there may be wines that I don’t care for or that the food might not be up to par – and I don’t really hide these things from my readers – that’s what the Unfiltered means in the title of the blog after all. But he insisted, and so here we are. As always, first a word about the food. As expected, hosting in someone’s home at this time is unrealistic and so the RCC took place at Brasserie Kazan which is located at 71 Achuza (on the corner of Achuza and Kazan). We sat outside with a reasonable amount of space between diners. Everyone wore masks –including attendees prior to eating and restaurant staff. The food was cooked well and was really plentiful. My favorite dish was the pappardelle with meat – the pasta was cooked perfectly, and the sauce worked well with the meat flavor accenting rather than overpowering the dish and vice versa. Well done. Other highlights were the Salmon Tartare on bruschetta and the Pineapple carpaccio for dessert. The service was excellent as well. If I lived in Raanana, I could see myself going there regularly. And now, on to the wines.

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  • 2018 Montaro Chianti; 2019 Recanati Syrah; 2019 Elvi Herenza Rioja Semi-Crianza

    Around the World in Your Supermarket for 50 Shekels

    While I am always on the lookout for reasonably priced wines to enjoy with dinner and sometimes lunch (now that I often work from home), it is even more important now with the pandemic, where people like to make less trips out and budgets are likely more stressed. I decided to see what’s currently available from my local Supersol in the NIS 50 range. I think that’s a fair price for a good everyday wine. I picked a supermarket because, quite frankly, if I have to venture out amongst the rest of the world to shop anyway, why not avoid a trip to another store and just stock up on some everyday wines while I shop. While this is not Europe where you can have your pick of nice everyday kosher wines priced between 6-13 Euros, we are starting to see a greater selection in this segment in Israel. This is key. Even in the US with its strict liquor licensing rules and archaic alcohol distribution regulations, more than half of wines sales today come from supermarkets (not kosher of course, but this is not the time for that particular rant). I chose three wines – each from a different kosher wine producing country. From Israel, we have the 2019 Recanati Syrah, from Spain the 2019 ElviWines Herenza Rioja Semi Crianza, and from Italy the 2018 Montaro Chianti. Overall, I am pretty happy. First of all, the Elvi is a QPR star – supermarket or not. Just a really wonderful bottle IMHO. The Recanati performed well and even the Montaro showed improvement over last year. All in all a very successful supermarket trip indeed. Happy drinking!

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  • Ya’acov Oryah 2020 Portfolio Tasting

    This is the last post that I “owe” from tastings that happened a couple of months ago.  As we say in Hebrew – Achron Achron Chaviv – which can be roughly translated as last but certainly not least – Ya’acov Oryah. As always, let me start by saying Ya’acov is a friend, and while I don’t think that impacts my impressions of his wines – I like to be up front about that and you can decide for yourself. Let me also take this opportunity to congratulate Ya’acov on the excellent recent write up of his wines in Forbes. It’s so nice to see him getting some recognition in the wider world of wine.

    The notes below are comprised of two tastings I did a couple of weeks apart. The first was an early taste-through of the 2020 lineup. By early, I mean really early. For technical reasons, bottling happened rather late this year. This tasting took place a few weeks later (4-6) while I usually taste through these wines 3-5 months after bottling. This was more to get an initial impression of many of the wines, especially the Skin Macerated Whites, which have a tendency to change. The second tasting was at the launch of the 2018 SOB release. SOB stands for Special Oryah Blend and is offered en primeur. It is a limited release wine with two vintages already out, a third currently in barrel, and a fourth being harvested now. The wine started out as an idea that a few of us had to ask Ya’acov to make a private barrel wine for a number of us here in Israel and abroad who are fans of his. Eventually, realizing that we are out of our depth when it comes to giving meaningful input on things such as vineyard selection, the project morphed into Ya’acov experimenting with a somewhat unconventional blend. No rules. No predetermined styles or blends to conform to. Lucky for all involved, Ya’acov felt the end result was worthy of repeating – in fact, so much so that he increased production in the second year (the 2018 vintage) with intent for it to be sold as his flagship red blend. And that is where the wine sits in the portfolio today. It is what Ya’acov feels is his best expression of a red wine in his style. At the same time, as the launch was at the winery, Ya’acov took the opportunity to share some additional exciting barrel samples as well. The result – another crazy long Oryah post with 20 or so wines to go through. Buckle up, off we go…

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