• What can you do?

    It has been a long difficult month. In Israel we usually say about things that we have yet to do – “אחרי החגים” – after the holidays. We push off everything we haven’t gotten to – because the holidays in Israel are an intense period. This year of course, אחרי החגים didn’t really ever occur. The holiday period was abnormally ended in such a horrible way that it has been impossible to make sense of what just happened. Certainly, getting the three or four posts that I had prepared finished for publishing now seems like a silly frivolity. Will I ever post my piece on Burgundies and Domaine de Montille, or the once in a lifetime chance of having dinner with Benyo in the holy city of Jerusalem? Who knows. But really, who cares. For now, it seems SO unimportant. After a month, people in Israel are still reeling. Everyone in Israel is no more than one degree of separation (if they are lucky) from someone who has been directly impacted by either the tragedy that happened that Simchat Torah day, or the aftermath of our troops having to enter Gaza and root out the evil that resides there. But while everyone is still reeling, a month has passed. In Judaism when someone is in mourning, the passage of שלושים is significant and allows the mourner to return, more or less, to a regular routine – not fully, mind you. That takes a full year. But partially. And that’s where we are – and that’s why I am willing to post. Because it is time to start to get back to some kind of routine.

    No this is not a normal post. It is not even a post about initiatives to help wineries – though they are in DIRE need of assistance. While the covid crisis brought its own challenges, ultimately alcohol consumption rose for the general population. Not true in this case. No one is drinking. No one is in the mood to be festive. Restaurants are closed. No one wants to go out. Even if they did, often times there is no one to staff the restaurants – or the wineries. A full 17% of the working population is now doing reserve duty. But again – other people have written about this already and there are initiatives in place to help wineries. My friend Yossie Horwitz spearheaded one such project via Leket – which is wonderful – and there are others. So, there is no need to add anything there other than to say everything you can do to help is needed and appreciated. Please buy Israeli wine if you can. If you are looking for specific winery recommendations à la my friend David Raccah’s post – I can give you my choices there if you like: Bigger wineries – Recanati & Dalton; mid-size wineries – Vitkin and Netofa; boutique wineries – Oryah & Shiran. There are plenty of others. Really anything you buy will make a difference in the end.

    But this post is not about that either. Though if you live in Israel, the rest of this post is not really directed at you. You don’t need me to tell you what to do. A greater outpouring of Achdut and mutual support among those that live here – Chareidi, chiloni, dati leumi, young,  old, sabra, oleh, rightist, leftist – I have never seen. But as most of my readers are based abroad, the rest of this post is directed at them.

    Like I said, for those of you abroad, there are things more important that you cane. You can visit! I know it’s a lot to ask. The news is scary. But really, it’s scary everywhere right now. I know this is not an easy request. I know its not practical for everyone. In which case, see the above paragraphs for what you can do at least wine-wise (there are also MANY giving opportunities to help our soldiers with upgraded gear, etc, but that is really beyond the confines of this blog). But, if you can swing it, PLEASE come and visit. The opportunities to volunteer and help here are pretty much endless. Where I live in Beit Shemesh, the local branch of Aroma for instance has taken upon itself to prepare THOUSANDS of sandwiches each day to be brought to the soldiers. These are clearly marked mehadrin – as many of the branches of Aroma that are supplying food are not – and they are sent all over the country as the kosher Aroma option for soldiers. How can they produce some much? Volunteers. Every day, dozens of people volunteer part (or all) of their day making sandwiches for soldiers at the Beit Shemesh Aroma. That is one TINY example. Every farmer is impacted. Many rely on foreign labor, which is now scarce, as well as young people – who are now almost all called up to the army. Farmers have no one to pick and sort the produce. Hundreds (likely thousands) of people every day volunteer their time in this effort to help farmers pick produce. Really the examples are endless. More than the aspect of helping these businesses avoid collapse during this delicate time, there is the added benefit of providing much needed chizuk (reinforcement) to those who live here. A few people I know have visited over the past few weeks. Each stayed for as long as they could and did what they could. I know that for me personally, it meant SO much that they were here. I am sure that this had the same uplifting impact on everyone they encountered. I had a friend from Teaneck who came and stayed with us the very next Shabbat after catastrophe, and he stayed for a week. He had nothing planned. He just dived in and helped every way he could. As much good as he did – and I know that he was volunteering nonstop — his willingness to just come and spend time here lifted my spirits – and I can say lifted the spirits of everyone he met that Shabbat in shul or at kiddush. Just being here. It was wonderful.  And so, this is what this post is about. Begging people to come – if they can. Just being here will do us a world of good. The mitzvot that you will have the opportunity to perform are just icing on the cake.

    May we know better times – soon.

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  • Klal Yisroel is suffering – is wine really that important??

    This post comes to me with great trepidation. Not on my behalf but rather I question if I have what to say of the horrors that have befallen a nation that lies so far from many of us. I was called out, by friends, for not posting here after the devastating attacks that were wrought upon the Jewish people in Israel. My reply, then, and maybe still now, is how does wine weigh in on this issue?

    So many of my posts here on this blog are counter to the approach new-world wineries have taken to meet the growing needs of the kosher wine-drinking public. The decision was a financial one that was focused far more on what a winery could sell than what it wanted to sell. My words are out there and I do not hide from them. They are my opinions and I stand by them. Still, many take my sharp criticism towards the direction Israeli wineries took to move in an even more new-world direction starting in 2009 as a reflection of my feelings towards the country! That could not be farther from the truth. Israel is the land of our forefathers, it is the land where I first learned to fall in love with wine and it is the land where I traveled to more often than any other location until 2018 or so. In the end, my dearest friends, family, and Rabbis are all in a land that is under attack and I feel deep pain for what my brothers and sisters (literally and metaphorically) have had to endure. The physical and psychological trauma is beyond words. I had the honor to finish the Torah this year at my shul and in respect to that I did a Siyum on Masechet Horayot, a Gemara I finished in the week, along with my Daf and the start of Shtayim Mikrah with Ramban.

    My point is that I broke down a few times doing the Siyum, imploring those to do more. More can be like my friends who have flown to Israel to carry food, clothes, and supplies to many on the front or worse. More can be protecting those who cannot protect themselves with funds and so much more. Every one of us cannot be silent we must do more we must stand and state that the atrocities that were wrought upon our nation are not OK. The people are suffering, it is not good enough to ask how people are, it is not enough to wonder if your friends and family are well, it is time for more! Talk to your community leaders and your friends, there are hundreds of opportunities to help those less fortunate than you. Now is not the time to stand on the side it is time to enter into the fray and do more. More is what is being asked of us until those opportunities, calluses, and pain are removed.

    So, with all that what does a wine writer have to say to the madness that we watch from afar? Stated simply wine is a business, the very same business that made conscious decisions to meet the needs of the many. That need did not just stop when war was thrust upon a nation. One may think talking about wine is crass and beneath us at a time like this. To that, the simple fact is wineries are real, they need your help, and they need the help of every Jew. We all need to do more. If you enjoy wine, buy Israeli wine. I have a few options here down below. If you dislike wine buy chocolate, buy food, buy Israeli. This is not a question of IF or OR this is an AND. You need to buy AND you need to do more. You need to support Israel as we all must do, and we must buy Israel, and we must pray, and we must learn, and we must do more. This is not the time to shirk your responsibility with IF or OR it is more and it is AND!

    I was asked for a list of wines I would buy and do buy and here they are, I have also sprinkled in a few wines that may accommodate other people’s palate. In the end, it is upon all of us to do more, stand by our brothers and sisters, and remember that the lack of action, whether within or external, is tantamount to supporting those who have terrorized our nation. Stand strong, stand well with Israel, and you will be supported as well.

    What follows is a smattering of current wines I buy/bought and wines I have tasted recently that you may all enjoy and buy. Some are older than I thought but they are the vintages I bought or enjoyed.

    2020 Vitkin Grenache Blanc, Samson – Score: 92.5 (QPR: GREAT)This wine is a blend of 90% Grenache Blanc and 10% Macabeo. The nose of this wine is lovely, ripe, tart, and elegant, with intense floral notes, violet, yellow flower, orange blossom, orange, minerality, and peach, just lovely! The mouth of this medium-bodied wine is lovely, ripe, balanced, tart, and elegant, with hints of oak, and a lovely almost oily mouthfeel, backed by intense acidity, showing lovely peach, apricot, melon, green tea, and smoke. The finish is long, tart, ripe, and balanced, with great smoke, hay, straw, fruity, and bracingly acidic. Bravo!! Drink until 2025. (tasted August 2023) (in San Jose, CA) (ABV = 13%)

    NV Matar Blanc de Noir Brut, Galilee – Score: 92 (QPR: WINNER)I wanted to ding this wine for the bottle shape, NO this is not cool! It is IMPOSSIBLE to store, and painful to ship, it may look nice, but it is a disaster, and I am sorry, it is a horrible idea. Now, let us get to rating the liquid in this horrible bottle! This wine is slow to open with lovely notes of green apple, Asian pear, peach, pomelo, lovely minerality, yeasty notes, and sweet Meyer lemon. The mouth of this medium-plus-bodied wine is a pure pleasure, it is acidic to the core, it is yeasty, it is nutty, it is clean, with lovely small mousse bubbles refreshing your palate like light butterflies dancing on your tongue, along with slate, slight tannin, beautiful minerality, green apple, Asian pear, peach, tart orange, and sweet quince. Lovely! The finish is forever, with enough weight, just tantalizing, with mineral, slate, saline, and lovely mousse and tannin and acidity that lingers forever with the pomelo and tart orange! Bravo! This harkens back to the early days of Matar, really a joy! Drink until 2027. (tasted September 2023) (in San Jose, CA) (ABV = 12%)

    2021 Netofa Matzpen, Galilee – Score: 92 (QPR: WINNER)This wine is a blend of 33% Grenache, 34% Syrah, & 33% Mourvedre. The nose is ripe, a bit too much for me, candied cherry, candied plum, rosehip, white flowers, smoke, green notes, roasted herbs, and sweet smoking tobacco. The mouth of this medium-plus-bodied wine is nice, with great acidity, and balance, still candied, but that will calm, with cranberry, pomegranate, dark cherry, life-saver candies, raspberry, layers of sweet oak, and nice tannin. The finish is long, tannic, layered, and refreshing, tart enough to make it all work, let’s watch this evolve a bit over the next few days. Drink from 2026 until 2030. (tasted October 2023) (in San Jose, CA) (ABV = 14%)

    2019 Netofa Latour, Red, Galilee – Score: 91+ (QPR: WINNER)Oh WOW! This reminds me of the good old days of the early years of Latour, very nice! This wine is a blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Mourvedre. The nose of this wine is floral, ripe, fruity, bright, smoky, earthy, and dirty, with roasted meat, this is what a Rhone should smell like, wow! The mouth of this full-bodied wine is a crazy WINNER, ripe, balanced, tart, fruity, and dirty, with lovely strawberry, tart, and juicy raspberry, boysenberry, smoke, earth, loam, hints of watermelon, root beer, and lovely garrigue. The finish is long, fruity, tart, smoky, and just fun, with great fruit focus, a dynamite mouthfeel, a very accessible wine out of the bottle, but will last some time as well, lovely!!! Sadly, by the night after opening the wine dulled out, and while it is not bad, and still a WINNER, it is not at the same level as I had upon opening. Right now, I do not truly understand how the wine goes from being a juicy and vibrant wine to being a dull one but such is life. Drink by 2026. (tasted June 2022) (in San Jose, CA) (ABV = 13.5%)

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  • Final Tasting from my trip to Paris – May 2023

    As stated in my previous post, I was in Paris in May, without Avi Davidowitz, from the Kosher Wine Unfiltered blog, his lame excuse this time was not even a good one, like marrying off a daughter! Nope, I will not say something like a four-letter word on this blog! Whatever, you were missed buddy! Mostly for the IDS and Royal tasting! This part you missed nothing!

    I kept to my hotel room for much of the trip. All these wines were tasted in my room. There were very few Roses available and what I could find, at that time, I have posted here.

    White & Roses

    After tasting roses from IDS and Royal I had a few more that I found around town. They were all very poor. I got to taste more roses in NYC, which was later in June, I will post those after this last Paris post.

    Two red wines from Bakus Wines

    Ari Cohen has a startup wine company called Bakus Wines. He shared two wines with me and this year’s vintages are solid! No issues with being over-oaked or overripe. Solid wines. Nice!

    Two Chateau Peyrat Fourthon wines

    This was the first big boy that I tasted from the 2021 vintage and scares me what these wineries will do with all the stock. These wines will not move quickly, short of drastic pricing, or just dumping. They are not the only ones sitting on palates of 2021 Grand Cru wines. Some wineries will weather the vintage and feel the satisfaction of the killing they will be making from the 2022 vintage. However, some wineries, like Chateau Peyrat Fourthon make very large batches of kosher wines and will be sitting on these for a long time and that makes me sad!

    Understand that Chateau Peyrat Fourthonis one of the very few wineries that make the kosher wine by themselves and they therefore do not have the large “kosher stamp markup”. They sell the wine for a few more euros than the non-kosher sells for in France and Europe. It will be sad if the 2021 vintage stops them or slows them down from this approach. Here is hoping for another few years from Chateau Peyrat Fourthon!

    Mercier Wines

    I tasted two wonderful wines from the Mercier group and two basic ones that are okay. The 2021 Chateau Saint-Martin Rouge and 2021 Domaine Lebrun Pouilly-Fume! There were also some simple wines, three 2022 Le Grand Castellan and two L’enclos de Zeide Reserve wines.

    The Rest

    The rest were okay, though the lovely 2018 Ribeauville Riesling, Rosacker, Alsace Grand Cru is a wine that should be imported into the USA! Like its brother the 2018 Cave de Ribeauville Riesling, Vendanges Manuelles (which I have tasted two times in France – great wine!).

    Thoughts on this tasting

    Overall, most of these wines are not available in the USA, but you are missing nothing other than the Ribeauville and the Terra de Vinyaters. The rest are in the USA, including the Mercier wines and the Chateau Peyrat Fourthon wines.

    The wine notes follow below – the explanation of my “scores” can be found here and the explanation for QPR scores can be found here:

    2021 Chateau Saint-Martin Rouge, Cotes de Provence – Score: 92 (QPR: WINNER (France))This wine is a blend of 25% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, & 25% Mourvedre. The nose of this wine is ripe and juicy with floral notes, violet, blue, and red fruit, smoke, graphite, and roasted meat. With time, the more savory, earthy, dirty notes come out as well and add complexity and depth to the wine. The mouth of this medium-bodied wine is fun, floral, juicy, and tart, with boysenberry, plum, dark cherry, herbs, graphite, searing acidity, nice mouthfeel, and a good fruity, balanced expression. The savory notes come out after a few hours and add complexity, Bravo! The finish is long, tart, and juicy, with nice acidity, graphite, roasted herbs, and red/blue fruit. Drink by 2025. (tasted May 2023) (in Paris, France) (ABV = 13.5%)

    2021 Domaine Lebrun Pouilly-Fume, Pouilly-Fume – Score: 92 (QPR: WINNER (France))This wine is stunning, concentrated, focused, mineral-laden, and so tart/juicy, that my palate was salivating long after I spit the wine out. Nice!! The nose of this wine is lovely, showing notes of sweet fruit, lovely orange blossom, intense minerality, honeysuckle, honeyed peach, honeydew, and intense smoke/flint. The mouth on this lovely medium-plus-bodied is truly fresh, ripe, and well-balanced with screaming acid, smoke, flint, gooseberry, cat pee, grapefruit, orange, lovely screaming acid, and layers upon layers of flint/slate! Showing a lovely weight and mouthfeel. The finish is long, green, ripe, and well balanced, with crazy mineral, screaming acid, and lovely rock, flint, and mineral. WOW!! Drink until 2024. (tasted May 2023) (in Paris, France) (ABV = 13%)

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  • Another awesome list of Elvi Wines

    OK, so this week was the craziest one I have had both professionally and communally in a very long time, but I refuse to not post every week and hopefully more until I catch up.

    So, enough about me, and Gemar Chatima Tova to you all. May you all be blessed with a year/life filled with all the good you can carry and then more, health, happiness, success, and many good wines to share with friends and family!

    So, now back to wine, this post is about Elvi Wines, I have written many times about Elvi Wines, and the first post I wrote about Moises and Elvi Wines is this. Truthfully, nothing has changed about that post, in regards to Elvi Wines, other than the labels and a few wines being dropped to streamline the marketing of the wines. My next main post on Elvi Wines was when I visited the winery with my wife. The longest post, wine-wise was when I flew over for two days and we did a crazy number of verticals with Moises and Anna!Before, in between, and after, I have been consistently posting their wines in my QPR posts, wines of the year, and so on. Why? Because they make exceptional wines at reasonable prices and they make a great selection of them under many labels. The labels have evolved, and some wines dropped, but overall, since I met Moises one day in San Francisco, tasting through the wines, I heard the story, the dream, and we have all been blessed to watch the trajectory of the winery. It continues to evolve, creating wonderful wines for a reasonable price while proving that Cabernet Sauvignon is not the only red wine that you can sell to the kosher wine buyer.

    It is still harder to sell wines as diverse and different as Elvi does. There is no Cabernet, and there is no Merlot, they find their way into the EL26 blend, but overall, Elvi is an expression of Spain – not an expression of the kosher wine palate. Elvi typifies Spain to the kosher buyer more than any other option and it has continued to excel in doing it. Sadly, we have seen Capcanes, which is a 5-minute drive from Clos Mesorah, take a large step backward. They too showed the potential of Spain, as a new-world wine in old-world clothing. Sadly, they have drunk from the same fountain of fruit, that so many Israeli wineries have, and they have lost their way. Thankfully, Elvi Wines, Clos Mesorah, and Vina Encina continue to not only execute great wines they also are improving and growing with new vineyards and winery plans.

    Many of these wines were sent to me by Moises in May and I tasted them in my Paris Hotel room, an absurdity I am want to do! That happens when your friends bail on you! Yeah, you know who you are!! LOL!

    The wine that made me wake up, from my jetlag, and take notice was the 2017 and 2018 Elvi Wines Herenza, Reserva, Rioja. A pair of lovely wines. The 2018 outshined the older brother. We have had great Reserva wines from Elvi, but this one, the 2018, is at a different level, BRAVO!! We had it again, at the KFWE London and there I marveled at it again. Just a crazy good wine!

    There are another SIX QPR (Quality to Price Ratio) WINNER wines out of 11. Bravo Moises and Anna, you guys keep raising the bar. Achieving what few can do and blessing us with wines to truly enjoy, wines that are refreshing, captivating, and enjoyed by all! There is FIVE Mevushal wine hiding in here, yes Mevushal! I know! Overall Moises does Mevushal well so that is not a big issue here. Still, thankfully, Moises is not boiling Clos Mesorah or Reserva!

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  • Yavine Wines aplenty – May tasting 2023

    OK, let me start by saying Shana Tova to all and my apologies for being so late with these posts – but I will be getting all my posts up within the next 6 weeks, so get ready for a bunch of posts, God Willing. In the meantime, let’s get to the wines.

    Nathan Grandjean and his partners have been producing wines for many years now, the first wines were the 2017 and 2018 Les Vins de Vienne. Since then he has added the fantastic wines from Vignobles Mayard, and now comes a slew of wines from the Languedoc and Chinon.

    All of these wines can be found on Yavine.fr in Europe. Grandjean will/can ship to almost anywhere in Europe for you! For all of you USA readers, they are available but it will take some effort to find them. Israel is still in the works from what I hear.

    Chateau La Baronne

    Château La Baronne is a family-owned winery located in the Corbières Massif in the south of France. The estate was founded in 1890 by Louis Lignères and has been passed down through five generations of the family.

    The vineyards are situated at an altitude of 100 to 200 meters on the Montagne d’Alaric, one of the highest points in the Corbières. The soils are a mix of limestone, clay, and sandstone, and the climate is Mediterranean with hot, dry summers and mild winters.

    The Lignères family cultivates 35 hectares of vines, with the main grape varieties being Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, and Mourvèdre. The wines are made using traditional methods and are aged in oak barrels.

    Château La Baronne is committed to sustainable viticulture and has been certified organic since 2007 and biodynamic since 2012. The estate is also a member of the Terra Vitis association, which promotes sustainable wine-growing practices.

    The wines of Château La Baronne are known for their freshness, elegance, and minerality. They are made to be enjoyed young, but they can also age gracefully for many years.

    The soils come from limestone, clay, and sandstone formations, mainly from the Tertiary and Quaternary periods. Fond of protecting nature, Jean and Anne are eager to make the most natural wines possible, using ancient winemaking methods (jar, cement, ceramic, eggs) as well as new ones.

    There are 7 new wines made kosher and they are all GOOD to WINNER in QPR (Quality to Price Ratio).

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  • My tasting of Bokobsa/Sieva wines – May 2023

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  • IDS tasting of current releases in Paris – May 2023

    As stated I was in Paris in May, and the second tasting I had on the trip was at the offices of Les Vin IDS. I was hoping for a blind tasting like we had in May 2022, sadly, it was not in the cards for me. Hopefully, the next trip will include an IDS blind tasting! I am looking at you Ben my man!!! This post, like so many of the other Parisian posts, that are NOT yet posted, is horribly behind. My sincere apologies to Ben and the IDS team. So, without further ado – the tasting!

    Le Vin IDS Wines

    Thankfully, many of the supply and wine bottling issues of 2022 are gone and all the wines were available and ready to taste in May of 2023! As stated there were many wines and they would have been perfect for a blind tasting but extenuating circumstances did not allow for that on this trip.

    As is customary, I ask Ben to open the windows to air out the room, as soon as I enter, as the smell of tobacco ash is always insufferable. I understand France is one of the few advanced nations in the world where smoking is still a thing. I have never tolerated it, the smell makes me retch, so Ben is always so kind to air out the room before we begin tasting his wonderful wines.

    Once that was done I took in the room and I realized this was going to be an awesome tasting. There were tons of new wines and wines I had never seen yet. Since then, many of those wines have made their way to the USA.

    White and Roses

    The first 9 wines we tasted were the current whites and roses from Les Vin IDS. One of them is a favorite of mine, the 2018 Clos des Lunes Lune D’Argent – a lovely white Bordeaux which started a bit slow for me in 2019 but it has blossomed recently and I love it!

    We started with the lovely 2022 Chateau Sainte Marguerite Cuvee Fantastique Rose, Cotes de Provence, followed by the 2021 Chateau Sainte Marguerite Cuvee Symphonie Blanc, Cru Classe, Cotes de Provence. There is only one rose this year, the Cuvee Fantastique.

    Then came a wine I have not seen in many a year! The wine was the 2021 Jean Luc et Paul Aegerter Pouilly Fuisse, Premier Cru, Vers Cras, Pouilly Fuisse. A lovely mineral bomb! I am not sure of the exact vintage of the last one, but it has been a while!

    Then came a lovely Sancerre, the 2021 Domaine Vacheron Sancerre, Grand Champs. Lots of fun! Followed by the 2021 Tokaj-Hetszolo Sarga Muskotaly, Tokaji, a unique and fun wine.

    Then came a wine, the lovely 2021 Gustave Lorentz Riesling, Grand Cru, Alsace, a baby of a wine from Alsace made in the way I love, dry, and screaming with acidity and minerality. The Petrol joy will come later! Finally, there was a Gewurtztraminer, that was nice but the off-dry approach is one I have a hard time with. Still professionally made and a real wine that may come around for me in a few years.

    Finally, there was the beautiful 2020 Domaine de Chevalier, Blanc, Pessac-Leognan. This is a famous white wine and it was a joy to taste. In the non-kosher market, the white Chevalier is more expensive than the red, as in this kosher production as well!

    Red Wines

    The next 18 wines – yes EIGHTEEN wines were all red. There were five of them that I had before, but the vast majority of them were new to me and everyone else at the table.

    We started with a run of Burgundy wines. I can hear it now, 2021 red Burgundies, they must have all been horrible! I had ZERO expectations that I would like these wines. Still, with each of them that I tasted, I found no issues that I disliked. They were all well-made, balanced, and enjoyable. In the end, nice wines indeed! There are three 1er Cru wines and 2 Village wines.

    That was followed by a nice red Cotes de Provence, a blend of Grenache and Syrah, the 2021 Chateau Sainte Marguerite Cuvee Fantastique, Rouge, Cru Classe. A nice, tart, refreshing red wine.

    After that, we moved to Bordeaux country! Starting with a simple 2020 Chateau Larrivaux. The wine was balanced and approachable. Next came one of my eternal QPR WINNER wines from IDS, the 2020 Chateau La Tour de By. There were two other Chateau Tour de By wines, one was the Heritage and the other was the Cuvee Cabernet Sauvignon. All three are QPR WINNER.

    The 2020 Chateau Leydet-Valentin, Saint-Emilion, Grand Cru, is a wine that I sadly cannot come to love, it is always a bit too ripe for me, maybe it would be great to taste further evolved, but such is life! The 2020 Chateau de Valois, Pomerol, is another wine I normally find too ripe, for me, even evolved ones that I have had the chance to taste. However, this vintage was more controlled and more balanced, IMHO, WINNER!

    Then came a few wines we have had before, the 2020 Chateau Labegorce, a lovely QPR WINNER. Next, was the 2018 Virginie de Valendraud, another of those wines that I have a hard time with. Next came the 2019 Chateau Marquis d’Alesme Becker, a lovely, QPR WINNER, in France for sure, and a GREAT QPR in the USA.

    Then came three epic wines, all back-to-back, the 2020 Chateau Lafon-Rochet, 2020 Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Leognan, and then the 2019 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte.

    All three of those wines are incredible. The Lafon Rochet pricing in France is really good and it is a clear WINNER in France. The last two wines, while not QPR WINNER, given the comparative pricing and quality landscape, are still GREAT QPR wines and should be in your cellar if pricing and life permits!

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  • KFWE London 2023

    To wrap up KFWE season, Royal Wines hosted its annual London event last week. As I have mentioned previously, the show in London is perhaps my favorite. It really has nothing to do with the wines – the vast majority of which I had tasted before. It more has to do with the Chevra. First of all, the wine drinking crowd in London are just super nice. Really – a higher caliber social group it would be hard to find. There is no posturing, no grandstanding. Just people who enjoy drinking wine and are happy to share in their experiences and hospitality. This is pretty much my experience each time I visit. On top of that, London allows me to spend time with friends from the US whom I get to see far too infrequently – and almost never at the same time. In general, whenever people visit Israel, they are usually coming with a number of obligations and have very little “hang” time. The same is often true when I am in the US – I have either work or familial obligations and rarely have chucks of time open for socializing. But, in London, if you are coming from the US or Israel (and were not originally from the UK) you have no obligations and so whenever KFWE London comes up, I get to spend some quality time with friends eating, out, touring, and just having a wonderful time hanging.

    This year was no different. As has now become almost customary, the KFWE was proceeded by a festive dinner. Rather than hosting us at his house as we did in the old days, Andrew Krausz hosted us at his newly opened restaurant “The Fireplace by Blue Smoke”. The attention to detail in putting this spot together in what amounts to his backyard (next to the retired airplane) is incredible – as was the food (pictures of which are below). Having said that, I do miss the more intimate feeling of being at home. This was more of a formal setting and a guided tasting hosted by Royal and led by both Menahem Israelievitch and Joseph Herzog, which paired each dish with both French and Californian wines. As is always the case with food and wine – there were some hits and some misses – but none of that really matters. It was about the experience, which was fun. On the food side, believe it or not, my favorite dishes were the fish – both the gravlax and hake. Andrew just does them both exquisitely. On the wine side, for me France took the night handily with wonderful showings of the 2019 Gazin Rocquencort, 2020 Le Hardi Gevrey-Chambertin, 2016 Château Lascombes and the 2020 Château Léoville Poyferré. We also had a couple of unique tastings, including the never released first edition of the Generation VIII, which was a 2002 North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as a barrel sample of the 2021 Warnecke Vineyard CS. Interesting indeed. I have to spend a moment also on the dessert. The original dessert that Andrew planned did not set properly, and so he whipped up a substitute. While a brownie may seem mundane, this was one of the best I have ever tasted. I can’t say that it paired well with the 2018 Château Piada – but like I said, it was unplanned – and excellent.

    The next day was spent touring a bit in various art galleries and bookstores followed by a nice lunch at the Tony Page @ Island Grill near Hyde Park. In general, most of the kosher establishments in London don’t have a reputation for excellent food. I can say that everything we had at Tony Page was on point from the Risotto to the lamb to the sticky toffee putting we had for dessert – excellent all. To top it off, they have a very decent wine list!

    But of course, the reason for being in London was KFWE. As in previous years, it was held at Sheraton Grand London Park Lane Hotel in Piccadilly.  As I have mentioned previously – I am not a fan of the layout there – and the rooms are ridiculously overpriced. Having said that, this year’s event was run very well. Even though it was right in the middle of summer, there was adequate AC and for the most part, the room is big enough for the number of wines being poured. The only note I can give is that there were not enough spittoons set up. Often there was one spittoon for two tables to share and they were stationary, meaning if you were at the far end of the table and wanted to spit, it was bit of a nightmare. But that aside everything went smoothly.  For the most part the food was nicely done – if not to my particular taste. However, at least for the press section, which ran from 2:30-5:30, there was plenty of canapés to go around, if you so wanted. One oddity, for the main event, which started at 6:30, they have canceled the VIP area. I understand that perhaps the food was not up to par the last couple of times – (even though it was trending better year over year), and so, I guess people didn’t feel it was “worth it.” But, this did have the unfortunate ripple effect of keeping everyone in the main room for the most part (yes there was a little food outside and on the floor above, but if you wanted to both taste wine and eat, that really didn’t work). So by 7:30pm the place was a zoo. Luckily for me, by then I really had to make my exit to catch a flight back to Israel. So I avoided this for the most part.

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  • RCC Israel # 45 – Tamuz 5783 at Mojo’s

    During the summer it’s always hard to find people to cook and so we decided to go with a restaurant this month. The restaurant in question is Mojo’s, which is a new venture by the Maller family. Tzvi Maller has a number of restaurants under his belt – most recently Crave in Jerusalem and Nobo in Teaneck, but a number of others before that as well. Mojos though is the first time the Maller family has made it a true family affair without any other partners involved in the day-to-day operation. And the Mallers are involved in every area – both in the kitchen and front of house, augmented of course by a truly pleasant and professional staff. But the real star of the show is the food. As you can see from the menu, we sampled a wide variety of menu items. I cannot remember the last time where EVERY single items was a hit. Yes, there was a slight delay between the first 2 courses – but this is a brand new restaurant which received a glowing review the same day from the Times of Israel – and so was literally packed from the time we got there until shortly before closing. Other than that delay, the food came out like clockwork and, as mentioned, was very tasty. It is hard to even choose a favorite dish – really they were all good – from the opening Caesar salad through the appetizers like the spaetzelle (reminiscent of a similar dish I remember from Nobo in Teaneck) and the Wagyu slider through their signature meat pizzas. They were all incredible (REALLY!) and pictures can be found below. But as effusive as I am about our experience, this is a wine blog after all, and it was pretty much a hit there as well. Yes there were two wines that were misses as far as I am concerned – but everything else was really great – and that’s a VERY good percentage. The only real downer is that when we taste in restaurants, its often very difficult to get a read on the nose in a way accurate enough to write notes, as you are in close quarters with other diners, and, in this case, there were aromas of lamb bacon and sausage that were wafting through the restaurant. But other than that, all in all, a pretty exceptional night. On top of that, right across the street from the restaurant on one of the security grates we noticed graffiti with the word “RCC” in plain sight. We then saw it again on random street signs. Clearly a sign that that Mojo’s is certainly an RCC-worthy choice to dine.

    Anyhow, here are my notes on the wines (minus the nose):

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  • KFWE 2023: NY & Tel Aviv

    Let me start by with the obligatory apologies for the lateness of this post. My work schedule unfortunately has not let up – and is forecasted to continue this way until at least November – so I am constantly playing catch up. This year, due to work, I was unable to do the full KFWE circuit. I did get a chance to hit KFWE in NY – but decided against writing it up as there were very few of Royal’s European wines that I hadn’t already tasted and written up. Also, for whatever reason, Royal decided to omit the press section of that event. This made it impossible to really taste through anything in a serious way when there are mob scenes all over the place and people wearing obscene amounts of perfume and cologne. On the other hand, as a social event, it was great – as all of the KFWE’s are hanging out with friends and casually drinking some of Royal’s excellent offering. Also, some of the food was quite good in the main hall, which really added to the fun atmosphere. (Whereas in the VIP section, the food was managed REALLY poorly – I’m not sure what went on there. The wines were excellent though! Special kudos to the 2020 Covenant Cabernet Sauvignon, which is excellent this year, and to the 2019 Carmel Tel Macphea Late Harvest Gewürztraminer. I had missed it on release, and it was nice to taste it – even so far from home.

    Having skipped KFWE-LA, the next KFWE up was Tel Aviv. Zur, Royal’s distributor in Israel is responsible for this event. As they distribute only a small subset of the Israeli wines that Royal distributes in the US, the TA event is naturally smaller – and more focused on the non-Israeli wines. On top of that, Zur DID have a press event prior to the main show, and this allowed for a much deeper dive on a couple of the new wines and, quite frankly, was really nice. It was a guided tasting of a selection of one wine per winery with representatives from each winery presenting their respective wines, making this a really nice event indeed. I will say that some of the wine selections were puzzling – for instance Ella Valley, which is now being distributed by Zur, chose to pour Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. I don’t have anything nice to say about that wine. I guess the color was OK. Herzog chose to pour their 2020 Baron Herzog Chardonnay – an underwhelming choice when they have so many excellent wines to choose from. Chateau Roubine chose to pour their Hippy Rose rather than pretty much any other wine they make, which would have been better. But rather than focus on those choices, let’s talk about the wines that impressed.

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