A lovely and expansive vertical tasting at Elvi Wines Clos Mesorah in Montsant – Nov 2021

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So, a quick recap of my life over the past 45 days. I was in Paris in November along with Avi Davidowitz of Kosher Wine Unfiltered. Avi and I tasted lots of wines and more posts about those wines are forthcoming. Avi left a few days after he arrived to return to his family in Israel for Shabbat and I stayed Shabbat in France. On Sunday I flew to Spain to taste wines with Moises and Anne, which I will be posting here. Then I flew back to Paris, hung out with family, and then flew home.

Two weeks later, I was back on a plane to Tanzania to climb Kilimanjaro. During the 2 weeks I was home I was training or working the entire time, so I barely got the Royal Wine tasting post up! Thankfully I climbed it safely and returned home. The 7 days on that mountain was the longest stretch of my adult life away from a computer, totally surreal for me! Anyway, I am now home and I will be working on my posts, God willing!

So, now back to wine, this post is about Elvi Wines, I have written many times about Elvi Wines, the first post I wrote about Moises and ElviWines is this. Truthfully, nothing has changed about that post, in regards to Elvi Wines, other than the labels and a few wines being dropped to streamline the marketing of the wines. My next main post on Elvi Wines was when I visited the winery with my wife. Before, in between, and after, I have been consistently posting their wines in my QPR posts, wines of the year, and so on. Why? Because they make exceptional wines at reasonable prices and they make a great selection of them under many labels. The labels have evolved, some wines dropped, but overall, since I met Moises one day in San Francisco, tasting through the wines, I heard the story, the dream, and we have all been blessed to watch the trajectory of the winery. It continues to evolve, creating wonderful wines for a reasonable price while proving that Cabernet Sauvignon is not the only red wine that you can sell to the kosher wine buyer.

It is still harder to sell wines as diverse and different as Elvi does. There is no Cabernet, there is no Merlot, sure they find their ways into the EL26 blend, but overall, Elvi is an expression of Spain – not an expression of the kosher wine palate. Elvi typifies Spain to the kosher buyer more than any other option and it has continued to excel in doing it. Sadly, we have seen Capcanes, which is a 5-minute drive from Clos Mesorah, take a large step backward. They too showed the potential of Spain, as a new-world wine in old-world clothing. Sadly, they have drunk from the same fountain of fruit, that so many Israeli wineries have, and they have lost their way. Thankfully, Elvi Wines, Clos Mesorah, and Vina Encina continue to not only execute with great wines they also are improving and growing with new vineyards and winery plans.

I arrived a few hours late because the train systems in Spain are massively antiquated and stopped running for a few hours. Once I arrived, we had the opportunity to start tasting through many a wine. The plan was simple, taste through the wines of Elvi, in a few verticals. A Vertical tasting, in this example, is when you taste the same wine across many vintages. After some tasting, we would have dinner and then go to sleep. The next day we would taste more, go out and see some lovely architecture, then swing by the new vineyards in Priorat, and then finish the tasting, get dinner, and then sleep early as the flight back to Paris is early.

As stated, eventually I got to the winery and the first vertical we did was all the Clos Mesorah wines from 2009 through 2019, except for the 2011 and 2012 vintages that do not exist. That was followed by a partial vertical of Herenza White (AKA InVita) wines. I appreciate tart and acidic wines like the Invita and they showed well, including some with age on them.

The tastings were really fun because tasting through Clos Mesorah is an opportunity to taste through the years of Priorat. Some vintages were very unique, while others were much akin to each other. Each one spoke of the vintage in their own ways, really inspiring. The one constant is acidity, deeply rooted, much akin to Four Gates and Chateau Malartic. Of course, Clos Mesorah is not as old-world as Chateau Malartic, but it has the acidity from its old-world terroir to balance some of its new-world fruit structure. Four Gates Merlot has the same staying power because of the acid that is so deeply core to its very being.

Tasting with Moises Cohen and Anne was a real joy. I have tasted with them before but this time the lineup was far more extensive and that gave me a chance to see what they look for in wine as they described what they thought they liked about the wines and what stood out in each of them, from their perspective. My notes are always what I taste, but my blog will attempt, at times, to emote some of what I hear from the winemaker or the host. In this case, Anne is very clearly passionate about the wine, it shows from the conversations and the notes she describes. Moises is equally passionate, but you can see him defer to Anne when it comes to the wine. Moises cut his teeth in the wine world on the vines and the terroir but eventually, that comes to the wine. The saying goes; wine is made in the vineyard. Together they make a dynamic duo that comes out in many ways. The artistry of the wine, the labels, the overall style they want – that is a duality between Anne and Moises, but Anne seems to take the lead there. In regards to the vineyards, the plushness of the wine, the weight, the overall mouthfeel, there Moises tends to lead, though Anne is side by side as well. The dance is fascinating to watch, explore, and just stand to the side and let happen. Overall, this tasting left me super happy for many reasons. First of all, Clos Mesorah is one of the most consistently great wines out there, even if the track record is a bit short. However, what stood out is the dance between Moises and Anne and the mutual respect they have for each other. Fun times indeed.

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  1. Eli Avatar

    Hi,
    Did you get to taste the 2010 Gran Reserva? Hearing that the 2010 Reserva is dead makes me hesitant to purchase this.

    1. winemusings Avatar

      As I posted in this very Clos Mesorah post – I have not tasted this – missed tasting it.

      David

  2. […] 2015 Domain Roses Camille was an option, but the price pushed out of the competition. There was the 2017 Elvi Clos Mesorah, at a far better price than the LaGrange, but again, the LaGrange fit right in that space, barely […]

  3. Avi Avatar

    Opened a well-stored bottle of the 2010 Rioja Reserva a few days ago. It wasn’t dead, but very grassy/green. Still enjoyable, but definitely past peak. Guess there will be bottle variation at this point. Thanks for the heads up, I was expecting this wine to last longer.

    Since 2010 was considered a great vintage for Rioja, I wonder if the grapes they took away from this wine to make the Gran Reserva really hurt it. Wondering the same about 2016 – do you know if they made a Gran Reserva in the 2016 vintage as well?

    1. winemusings Avatar

      Not sure, IMHO, there seems to be some bottle variation in 2010. Some find their 2010 ok and others feel like me and you. In the end, 2010 was a wine we saw coming, not on release but after a few years. 2009 is still not in that boat and neither in the 14. Check-in on them every so often, that way you enjoy the wines maybe “before peak” but still enjoy them! Be well and Happy Passover!

  4. […] of their wines garner QPR (Quality to Price Ratio) scores regularly. Even the most expensive wines, other than the Sublim, are all in the QPR […]

  5. […] two wines that are readily available here in the USA and France, but they differ! The first is the 2018 Clos Mesorah – a lovely wine with rich expression and focus. It is available here in the USA along with […]

  6. […] main post on Elvi Wines was when I visited the winery with my wife. The longest post, wine-wise was when I flew over for two days and we did a crazy number of verticals with Moises and Anna!Before, in between, and after, I have been consistently posting their wines in my QPR posts, wines […]

  7. Aaron Avatar

    Hi any quick comment on the elvi herenza rioja 2020( not semi).
    I just bought it and I realized your last review was for ‘21 vintage.
    Tysm for everything and Chag Sameach

    1. winemusings Avatar

      Chag Sameach – I posted that wine note here:

      https://kosherwinemusings.com/2023/09/22/another-awesome-list-of-elvi-wines/

  8. […] elegance, and all bottled for a price that makes it a WINNER! This is showing a bit better than when I had it in late 2021!The nose of this wine is beautiful, balanced, complex, and shows less oak than in 2016, but still […]

  9. […] and all bottled for a price that makes it a WINNER! This is showing a bit better than when I had it in late 2021!The nose of this wine is beautiful, balanced, complex, and shows less oak than in 2016, but still […]

  10. […] and all bottled for a price that makes it a WINNER! This is showing a bit better than when I had it in late 2021!The nose of this wine is beautiful, balanced, complex, and shows less oak than in 2016, but still […]

  11. […] late November 2021, I flew to Barcelona to see Moises & Anne Cohen, and we tasted through almost every wine that they produced, minus a few. Well, fast forward to […]

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