I need to be honest here: this post was supposed to go up many months ago, but each time I started writing it, I felt sick to my stomach. Anyone who has read these virtual blotter pads knows I am happy to share what I think about wines, but when it also happens to be about people I love and appreciate, things get kind of difficult. I have written wine notes of friends that were less than complimentary, but when it comes to the wines of Israel, my feelings are well known.
I do not need to do any more deep dives into that space; more than enough virtual ink has been spilled on these pages on that matter. As such, I will say this: the issues I stated in my “Dear John” post have not improved at all; actually, they have gotten worse. Reading that again now, some 12 years later, it is clear that I was not only on point but that Israel has grabbed the horns and doubled down. Wineries I could trust on the fringe are all gone now. Raziel is one of the last lone survivors.
Recently, I was at a group tasting, and I dared them to have their significant other go into a kosher wine shop (or any wine shop that sells kosher Israeli wine) and randomly pick three wines, each under $35. They should all be from different producers and be of different grapes. Then put them in a brown bag and pour them. I said they would have ZERO chance of even guessing the wine varietal or knowing whether the three glasses were different or the same wines. How can I be so sure? Because I have done this over and over at every kosher wine event I attend. At KFWE and KWD, I went to each wine table to sniff and taste the wines. Every one of the wines, and I can honestly say, I could barely tell them apart. There is ONE single, very clear denominator across all the red wines: hot, ripe, candied, oaky, and astringent. Sure, there were a few wines scattered here and there, and I posted about them. Still, 95% of the wines I sniffed and tasted matched my perception.
These wines were created for the absolute least common denominator, people with literally no palate. NONE that I could even hope to understand. They are so over the top, each and every one of them, that there is no place for nuance, creativity, or even the semblance of balance. They are all ripe, candied red wines, which is why I said I have very little hope anyone could tell them apart.
The one saving grace is that there are a few good white wines, and the sparkling wines coming out of Israel continue to impress at levels that exceed Champagne, at least for my palate.
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