Seder 2020

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Wine writing is something that I take pleasure in ordinarily. It allows me to crystallize my thoughts about whatever topic it is that I am writing about. If I happen to be writing about specific bottles, as opposed to a general topic, it actually helps me to commit the notes to memory – as well as the circumstances in which they were tasted – whether they be a winery visit, a festival, or a wine dinner. And therein lies the reason I have not written these last few weeks. These are times that I really would rather forget.

We are all living in a surreal period. While Pesach (Passover) is a time where families and friends come together, this year, many of us will be spending the holiday with only our nuclear families. I consider myself lucky in that regard. We are six – with my wife, three daughters and my son, and we have been treating the last few weeks as a bonding experience. There are many seniors and singles who will be by themselves. And even they are lucky, as many families have suffered tragic losses these last few weeks. On top of that, the hospitality sector, which includes the food and wine industry, is perhaps the hardest hit outside of the airlines – and I count many winemakers, restaurateurs, and cooks among my friends who are having a very difficult time. And so, these are times that I would rather forget than commit to memory.

Having said that, a number of people have written to me asking me to post a Pesach wine list. As in previous years, I will leave that to my friends David Raccah and Yossie Horwitz, each of whom has published their picks for purchases this year. Instead – what I will try to do is provide some sort of strategy for the unique situation we are in.

Regardless of the circumstances we find ourselves in, we have a commandment to drink the four cups at the Seder – and the Seder is supposed to be a festive meal. As most of us are likely having scaled back Sedarim with fewer participants this year, an adjustment is likely necessary in the number of wines we open over the course of the meal. And so I will give you my strategies depending on how many bottles you intend on opening. In general though, I tend to stick with lighter bottles, as there is a lot to drink, eat and much to discuss -so Rosés and Pinot Noirs usually for the center of attraction.

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