KFWE London takes a giant step forward with things still to fix

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As always, I start my posts by thanking God and my wife for allowing me to go and taste wines around the world. With the Coronavirus (COVID-19) going strong around the world, I was sure the planes would be emptier, but they were not. Thankfully, I flew and returned home, safely, Shomer Petayim Hashem. Now, on to show.

This year, I flew to London, and was in London for less than 24 hours, before, going on a train to Paris, where I stayed until after Shabbat, then I flew to NYC for KFWE there, then to LA, for KFWE there and then on home. Our plane to London came after the storms that terrorized Europe. First came Ciara on Feb 9th, a week before KFWE, but then came Dennis, the Sunday before KFWE, which was on Monday. What a beast that was, look at these videos, intense flooding! Ciara was so crazy that it blew a British Airways 747 825 MPH! The flight from NYC to LHR took under 5 hours, the fastest on record! I have a few snapshots on my flight going 700 MPH but come on, we were getting the leftovers of Denni’s fury or help, depending on how you see it and understanding the context of where you were at that moment.

Sadly, Dennis was so destructive, it did not stop at London or Paris, it continues throughout Europe. Sadly, that meant that wineries from Italy and Spain were not able to attend the KFWE. So Elvi Wines’s Moises Cohen and David Cohen were not able to make it, and nor was Eli Gauthier from Cantina Giuliano.

Overall thoughts of the new wines

Throughout the travels, I really did not find any new wine that I would kvell about. I STRESS NEW wine. Sure, there are many great wines, but they were wines I had already tasted. I did taste a few very special wines in Paris, that is another three posts from now. Other than that, all the roses I tasted from 2019 carried forth the flaws of 2018, flat, boring, and maybe showing a bit more acid, but who really cares. If there was ONE takeaway, from all the KFWE and other tastings like Bokobsa, and tastings I did in private, it would be that 2019 roses are a HARD pass from Israel and USA so far. The thankful note goes to Royal Europe for bringing back the rose love with the 2019 Chateau Roubine, La Vie! Also, Bravo to the unbottled Costa Rosato from Cantina Giuliano, sadly Eli was not there, because of the storms, but the rose showed very well, more of a Gris than a rose, and lovely. The other takeaway I had from all of the KFWE was that 2017 was a VERY hard year for California. It shows in every 2017 red and white wine, that I have tasted so far, except for the 2017 Herzog Chardonnay, Lineage, which is lovely, and which was on my QPR of the year list. The 2017 vintage, throughout the world, actually sucked. Spain had hail and other issues, Israel was a mess, California had two HUGE heat waves hit it and many lost their fruit, along with the smoke taint from the fires, and France had the freeze that culled many vineyards, while also just being an average vintage for Bordeaux and Burgundy. Yes, there were a few very nice wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy from 2017, but the vintage was no 2015 or 2016. On average 2017 in Bordeaux was no homerun. The 2017 California wines either taste overly ripe and fruity or they taste green and under-ripe. Either way, 2017, IMHO, is a vintage I will pass on from California, sadly.

Getting back on topic, the reason for coming to KFWE London was simply that I like London, it is a great city, and even if I am there for less than 24 hours, it is still fun to see the environment of what is becoming quite a kosher food and wine enclave. The issues I brought up on my post last year, being the distribution of kosher wines is still hanging over London. I spoke with many of the buyers that I know of in London, and they all agree, none of the enophiles buy their wines from a store. This issue is one I highlighted in my year in review, and it is one that needs to be answered long term.

KFWE London 2020

So, in my review last year of KFWE London 2019, I summed it up in one sentence:

So, in a single sentence to wrap up KFWE London 2019, an elegant hall and presentation, solid wines served, ok crowd control, poor implementation of the venue, glasses were OK and could be improved, and the food needs help.

This year things changed, well most of them anyway. Let us start with the good, the hall continues to be a huge highlight of the event, both the general hall and the VIP hall/rooms are quite beautiful. They are elegant and regal, all the ways you expect a London event to be held. The wines were solid again if you wanted to taste the new 2017 Royal wines, this was the ONLY KFWE event that had them all, ONLY! Sure, Menahem Israelievitch was nice to bring the 2017 Leoville Poyferre, by hand, from Paris, but if you wanted to taste the 2017 Chateau Giscours or the 2017 Les Roches de Yon Figeac, you were out of luck. Throw in the fact that ALL of the 2017 Herzog Wine Cellars Winery also had all of their 2017 wines there, along with the yet unlabeled 2016 Herzog Cabernet Sauvignon, Calistoga, Single Vineyard. Once again, Herzog Wine Cellars came to play and came with all their wines. Though it was an absolute miracle for Jospeh Herzog to have even made it to London, he too was disrupted by the storms, but he was there, with maybe an hour of sleep, promoting hos wines, Bravo Joseph!!

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  1. Yonasan Avatar

    “2017, IMHO, is a vintage I will pass on from California, sadly.”
    Is this bad-vintage issue only for Herzog (only Herzog’s wines were listed here), or even Covenant and Hagafen (and others)?

    1. winemusings Avatar

      I was not a fan of the Hagafen reds at all. The 2017 Covenant Cab and Lot 70 were also lacking. I have not tasted the Hajdu or Shirah 2017 wines.

  2. Jeff Morgan Avatar

    David, I’m getting really tired of reading your across-the-board slams of Israeli wines. Maybe you just aren’t tasting enough. Or perhaps your tendency to taste large quantities of wine in loud, crowded environments impacts your ability to gauge quality. For example, my 2019 Israeli rose has a 3.02 pH and a TA of 8.16. Regardless of whether you like it or not, those numbers (which perhaps you don’t understand) make it physically impossible for the wine to fit your following quote: “2019 (roses) carried forth the flaws of 2018, flat, boring, and maybe showing a bit more acid, but who really cares.”
    If you are going to take it upon yourself to continue to be a self-declared wine critic, I suggest you dispense with broad generalizations of any sort. They are imperfect at best….and very flawed, like so many of your caustic reviews.

    1. winemusings Avatar

      Hello Jeff! Thanks for your comments, they are always appreciated. As always, we can agree to disagree. So, to start, you commented on my broad feelings about Israeli wines and then attempted to prove it incorrect with a single example of your rose wine.

      I hope we can agree that your 2019 Israeli rose was not at the London KFWE? Because it was not. I found it pleasant as do others when I tasted it at the KFWE NYC.

      So, to close, my feelings about Israeli red wines (over the past 10 years) and many Israeli white/rose wines from 2019 (not yours again – yours was NOT at KFWE London), that I have so far tasted, are uninspiring at best. There are white/rose wines I like, I listed one in the London post, and the 2019 Matar SB/Sem is also nice.

      So, in closing, to answer your question, my feelings have not changed. Your example does not change the overall approach of Israeli red wines, of which I continue to harp about. The 2019 whites and roses are underwhelming with a few exceptions, your rose is nice, not as good as two years ago, but nice. That said, it does not change the underlying issue with Israeli wines, nor my opinion of them.

      Finally, your question of my tasting more of them. I tasted ALL the red and white and rose Israeli wines throughout the KFWE events. I made sure to do this, sadly, nothing has changed, excepting for maybe the 2016 Carmel LE and one other.

      As always, it is a pleasure to chat – David

      1. Yonasan Avatar

        I don’t mean to intrude, but there is something on my mind, if I may. There is a severe lack of information for the Kosher wine consumer. Some information is out there, but not much. Even big non-kosher magazines and publications have little or outdated reviews or nothing at all.
        I (and I’m sure many) don’t/can’t attend KFWE (crowded, transportation, scheduling) but want information. The same is true for the limited local tasting options, if any at all (I know of none in my area.)
        While I definitely carefully filter the information that I get (such as rants that register on the Richer scale or battery-acid-like levels of acidity that I dislike), I do need information. I can’t buy tons of bottles just to taste. Too expensive. I do need to hear other people’s opinions and recommendations. I then buy based on wineries I trust (such as Covenant, always a winner), other wines I’ve liked in the past (assuming a decent vintage), and select recommendations (blog or in-store). Unfortunately there’s not much out there, so I take what suggestions I can get, filtering out things like what Jeff is referring to and store salesman sales-pitches. (Sometimes I’ve seen little tasting-notes info-tags in stores by some wines, but almost never)
        I wouldn’t mind a softer rant too, but you do provide me some useful information, and while I don’t personally agree with a lot of your opinions, they are yours, as is this blog.
        I would also like to add that I recently enjoyed the ’18 Red C and Blue C Roses (1 US internet retailer has some Blue C) despite their ‘age’, and I’ve had Israeli wines that were not “ripe date juice” as you called it, and some (not all) that were very ripe when new, but, at least to me, became lovely wines after some air and/or bottle age, (all just my opinion), something that KFWE can’t offer.
        על טעם וריח אין להתווכח !
        Since there are barely any (if any at all) reviewers of Jeff’s professional caliber or in that league, us readers would greatly benefit if you would “take your reviewing to the next level”.
        Until then, David, keep on writing (and I’ll filter it for myself as needed), and Jeff, keep up the good advice (here and your blog) and keep making wonderful wines; irrelevant to what some people may say, I think that they are ALL amazing!
        All the best and a Happy Purim to all, l’chayim!

      2. winemusings Avatar

        Hello Yonasan, as I have stated often, this blog is here for me to state my beliefs, nothing more. I am always happy when people leave their opinions as well. Happy Purim and Passover!

  3. […] I stated the kosher wine tasting season was upon us, and the first of my posts about the ones I attended was my London post. After a quick train ride to Paris, and a stop at the hotel, it was time for another tasting, the […]

  4. Jeff Morgan Avatar

    Dear David, I think you missed my point. It’s the vast quantities of wine you taste in somewhat chaotic circumstances that make it impossible for you to gauge quality in the way a wine critic needs to. As a former wine critic myself, I can tell you that I always tasted wines for review in quiet, appropriate environments where i could give each wine its due. This is what you need to do. Tastings like the KFWE are great for getting a snapshot of whassup; but not for in-depth, serious tasting. I look forward to explaining to you how best to set up a proper tasting environment the next time we are together. All the best….and Shabbat shalom!

    Jeff

    1. winemusings Avatar

      Hello Jeff,

      I am always happy to hang and talk. With that said, flavors do not change in environments, if a wine is overripe, it will not magically change to something different in a quieter and more amicable setting.

      That said, I need to be clear, I never asked nor never stated I am anyone’s critic buddy. NEVER. If others see me as so, that is on them. I do not ever state that in public nor do I promote myself in that manner.

      Other than that, I am happy to talk, but an environment will not change the state of Israeli wines, IMHO. Remember, that is all I have ever stated, IMHO.

      Have a great Shabbat!
      David

  5. […] gone, – with the last couple being canceled given the world we live in today. As I walked around KFWE this year – I was asked again for a list of my top kosher wines for Passover, so here it goes! This is my […]

  6. […] I receive, having nothing to do with my posts is access to tastings or wine to taste. Also, I have received passes to KFWE, or this year, the KFWV. The coupon codes are not affiliated links or deals for me! Again, I get no […]

  7. […] of having one purveyor for all the food, if done correctly, it can work. Look at what we had in London VIP in 2020 in comparison to London VIP in 2019. Remember, that this iteration of the KFWE was VIP for all. As […]

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