2017 kosher wine year in review

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Well, it is another Gregorian year and though there have been many new things going on in the world of the kosher wine world, they are all small in comparison to the larger fact that not much has changed. I truly mean NOT A SINGLE thing I brought up in last year’s set of issues has changed – NOT ONE!!

In many ways, they are getting worse, and one of those issues where I was personally promised a fix from the man in charge – well let us just say that nothing changed yet – maybe there is still hope (think LA). But let us start at the beginning and get to my issues next. So here is what I thought about 2017, in terms of kosher wine overall.

First, let us do a quick recap of last years issues and the state of them, and then a few new things to think about as well!

Economics

We have too much wine out there for the official kosher wine buying populace. How do I know this? Because the amount of wine being dumped on the non-kosher market for a pittance in countries that no one visits is absurd! Wine is being dumped all over the place, and it is not going to get better anytime soon. Why? Because wineries are still popping up all over the place, and they are making really average wine at best!

Which brings me to the same issue, but in more detail. We have lots of horrible wine out there. Yes, I know I am a broken record, get over it. The kosher wine market in Israel and California needs to get better at making wines for a decent price. But I would be happy with just good wine – for a not decent price.

Again, besides the price, the overall quality of the wines are just not acceptable. The good news is we have lots of wine, but sadly the quality is not there. We need to raise the quality and then work on lowering the price.

State after 2017 of the Economics of kosher wine

Nothing has changed here. Israel is even worse than it was in 2016. At least at the beginning of 2017, we had some 2014 whites that were still ok. Now, they are all dead. The Matar, Tabor wines are all oak juice or flat as a pancake. The 2015 wines are a total and absolute disaster. There was ONE wine I would buy again from 2015 in Israel, and that is the 2015 Tzora Misty Hills, which was on my list of top 25 wines of 2017.

I will say that Herzog has stepped up its game. The 2014 Herzog Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, Alexander Valley – my 2017 wine of the year, was lovely and reasonably priced for such a good wine. Quality at Herzog is rising, Four Gates is always the same – mostly great wines with a mix of a few misses. Shirah Winery had a few wines on both the QPR wines of 2017 and the interesting wines of 2017. Hagafen Winery continues to make the lovely Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and sparkling wines. Look at Hajdu’s Italian wines – they are really fun and very well made! Covenant Winery has been making Cabernet Sauvignon for 14 years now, and Chardonnay for 9 years and they are consistently on my list of top best wines for Passover, the hits keep coming! Still, overall even within California, there is a lot of work to be done in regards to improving the quality and the prices.

So, yes California is improving, but that is about it! France does not need “improving”. Italy could use better options outside of Terra de Seta! Spain is rocking with Capcanes and Elvi Wines.

The issue though is that there are THOUSANDS of bottles and they are all undrinkable and horrible wines. I am not trying to be Politically Correct, why should I? I do not make wine (other than a few gallons of Pinot Noir to learn the process – hands-on style), I do not sell wine, I will never make money from wine – in any form or manner. I have no issue, desire, or need – THANK GOD!!!

What I do need is to make clear that the state of where we are is not healthy. We have far too much wine that no one wants. Go to stores, go online, there are hundreds of labels of wine from 2010, 2012, 2013. Old labels of old wines that no one wants. What are these poor stores to do? They have no choice! They have to buy the wines – why? because that is the game! The more you buy the stuff that does not move, the more access you get to the stuff that everyone really wants! You rub my back, I rub your back, AKA old mafia style. Nothing new, I am not spilling state secrets here. The issue is that whether we like it or not, stores are the lifeblood and they are being forced by importers and distributors to move stuff that no one wants.

Look at what I said about how many HORRIBLE Rose wines we had – they are still on store shelves! What are they going to do with that stuff?? There are still 2013 Netofa roses in some stores!!

If the wines stink, they sit on shelves, so when I want a new vintage of the hot new Rose, I cannot buy it! Why? Because the store still has previous vintages, what is he supposed to do – eat it? Why should he? I am not in the business, but this much I know – old labels of dead wine stuck on the internet and physical wine stores – IS BAD FOR BUSINESS! PLEASE fix this! Move the stock – kill the stock – I do not care!

Finally, remember that the wine business is a fickle mistress. It is a long-term game – one that needs to be managed and maintained. Names and reputations can be lost overnight when the buying public realize that what they have been enjoying for so many years is just not there anymore. Worse than that, is that all that wine, three or so years of it – the one being made, the one in the winery, and the one in the channel are all flipped on their head and now you have a real problem on your hand. That day is not here in any way. However, seeing where the public is slowly moving, that day is not as far as you would expect. The public is learning – white wine is MOVING! things are changing, and if wineries continue to build wines for the past – they will be left with a ton of inventory that no one wants. You heard it here first!

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  1. Yonasan Resnick Avatar

    Nice article. One comment I feel compelled to make; About the mevushal issue in restaurants. While it is a BIG deal for many, the halacha is very straightforward that ANY WINE that is NOT MEVUSHAL and touched by a non-Jew or non-Shabbos-observant Jew becomes not kosher. That is the reason that in the US there is a requirement for mevushal. If a restaurant has a 100% religious staffing, there would not be a problem. However, this is usually not the case. No one would want to see a wonderful bottle of wine go down the drain because the wrong employee touched it. Also, it could potentially cause a problem with the dishes of the restaurant as well. I have no idea how any Rabbinical authority can allow non-mevushal wine in a restaurant without 100% religious staff unless employees are not ever allowed to touch the wine.
    The real question is not why the US is “overly religious”, but rather how restaurants elsewhere can be so lax with kashrus requirements.

  2. winemusings Avatar

    Hello Yonasan,

    To start please read my post on kosher wine 101: https://kosherwinemusings.com/2011/04/16/kosher-wine-101-what-makes-a-wine-kosher-or-what-is-kosher-wine/

    And my follow-up post:
    https://kosherwinemusings.com/2012/02/22/poor-posts-on-kosher-wine-and-my-rebuttal/

    Let us go over a few refinements to your statement. The issue with yayin nesech is essentially dead today. The real issue is yayin stam and shichsuch (shaking). Non jews can touch the bottle all day – that is NOT the issue. The issue is moving it – which causes a shake (shichsuch).

    Next, the ENTIRE world makes this work – it is not hard!

    Step 1 – NEVER TOCH my wine! It is mine. DO you see waiters touching my food? Of course not! They should not touch my wine either.

    Step 2 – You do not need 100% Frum staff – all you need is a staff that understands what they can and cannot do.

    Again – in closing – restaurants around the world, in France, Israel, South America, all use non mevushal wine – we are the only ones who force it!

  3. Yeracmiel Avatar

    Thanks for the wealth of useful and entertaining information.

    You mention that the 2014 Alexander Valley is sold out, which is a shame.
    Isn’t it a bit unusual for that to happen so quickly? (compared to other years)
    Any thoughts on that?

    Also, are you actually saying to avoid the 2015?
    How bad is it?

    Thanks.

    1. winemusings Avatar

      No, the wine has been out since March 2017. I have yet to taste the 2015 vintage as it is not yet released.

      1. Yeracmiel Avatar

        Thanks!

  4. Matthew Schoenfeld Avatar

    I found the 2015 Alexander Valley available now. Please see here:

    https://www.kosherwine.com/herzog-special-reserve-alexander-valley-cabernet-sauvignon-2012.html

    Have you had it yet?

    Matt

    1. winemusings Avatar

      I bought a bottle to try but sadly it got lost. I hope to taste it soon

      1. Matthew Schoenfeld Avatar

        waiting on pins and needles…thx

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  7. Matthew Schoenfeld Avatar

    Have you tried the Herzog 2015 Alexander Valley Special Reserve Cab yet?

    Thanks

    Matt

    1. winemusings Avatar

      Yes it is more ripe than the 2014, and it is not in the league as the 2014. Nice wine, will post score soon, but it is not a wine I will heavily stock up on

      1. Matthew Schoenfeld Avatar

        Thank you very much. After an exhaustive search, I was able to find and procure a case of the 2014. It was not easy but I did it! Looking forward to enjoying it. I have also recently discovered your blog. Very quickly I found that l like much of what you say (but more importantly the way you say it). Thank you for your efforts.

    2. winemusings Avatar

      Yes it is more ripe than the 2014, and it is not in the league as the 2014. Nice wine, will post score soon, but it is not a wine I will heavily stock up on.

  8. […] world, they are all small in comparison to the larger fact that not much has changed. I truly mean NOT A SINGLE thing I brought up in last year’s set of issues has changed – NOT ONE!! Though there were more solid wines last year, which we will talk about […]

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